Read 1 traveller review of Xakanaxa

Within the heart of the Moremi Game Reserve lies Xakanaxa, an old favourite of ours – located in one of the most beautiful areas of the Okavango Delta, on the banks of the Khwai River.

Xakanaxa has twelve traditional Meru-style tents which all stand on raised wooden decks and have a veranda overlooking the Xakanaxa Lagoon. The tents are spaced fairly close together – so it is sometimes possible to hear your neighbours, but they are private as there's a reed fence to separate each tent and provide privacy. The tents are beautifully decorated in earthy tones of browns and creams. They have wooden floors with rugs, large wooden twin or double beds with soft white cushions and fluffy duvets, brown leather headboards, 2 suede ottermans at the foot of each bed and a writing desk (with a flask of fresh water and ice) and chairs. There's also an enormous free standing fan.

At the back of each tent is a separate en-suite bathroom with a hot shower, a stone bowl basin and a flushing loo. They provide fresh towels, face cloths, dressing gowns, soaps, shampoo and body lotion.

At night the tents are lit by candles and paraffin lanterns for ambiance. In my bathroom, the paraffin lantern was hanging from an iron antelope sculpture.

The whole of the tent, including the outside bathroom, is covered by a large canvas roof. On top of this is a very innovative, and unobtrusive, sprinkler system which mists the roof of the tent with a very fine spray on hot summer days. This certainly cools the inside substantially, and so makes Xakanaxa a good camp to consider if you can't handle the high temperatures in the summer months (October to March).

Although usually working as one camp, Xakanaxa has four tents, to the left of the main area, which can be split off to form their own private camp. They call this 'Pandani' – and these tents share their own private lounge and dining area, and a small swimming pool. It's ideal for small group or families of up to eight – and helps Xakanaxa to welcomes families.

Activities at Xakanaxa include game drives in open 4x4 safari vehicles. These have three rows of seats, and usually no more than six guests – although they can take up to nine guests when the camp is busy. Private vehicles and specialist guides can be arranged, subject to availability, for an additional charge.

Powerboat are also offered and are an ideal way to explore the large, adjacent Xakanaxa Lagoon and the channels around it – an area that is especially good for birding in the spring and summer months, when the migrants breed. Mokoro trips are also often possible, although this depends on water levels. Mekoro are generally useless on the lagoon, as the water levels there are far too deep!

Game viewing is very good in the Moremi and the birding is very spectacular too. I had excellent lion and leopard sightings when I visited in October '07, I spent some amazing time with a herd of about 300 buffalo, and had some lovely relaxed viewings of breeding herds of elephants.

Having said this, Xakanaxa Camp is – a rarity for our suggested camps in Botswana – situated within a national park: the Moremi Game Reserve. This means that neither night drives or walking safaris are allowed in this area, and also that game vehicles should not drive off the tracks. It also means that you will see other vehicles around whilst you're on your drives.

In conclusion … we're usually sceptical about using camps within the national parks – because of the number of self-drive vehicles around, and the restrictions of park rules. Despite this, Xakanaxa is in a superb game area and is very well run –so we have no reservations about sending our travellers here.

Lodge overview

Lodge type: Safari

No. of bedrooms: 12 Classic safari Meru tents

Season: Open Year Round

Ideal length of stay: 2 to 3 nights is ideal – and Xakanaxa Camp combines well with Kwara Camp or Little Kwara as we can organise can transfer by boat from camp to camp. This passes through Gcodikwe Lagoon; at the right time of year (around October to January is best) this has an amazing colony of breeding storks – probably the largest in the region! For long stays of four nights or more, the camp will arrange a full day trip to the Khwai River area, in the north of Moremi. It's a beautiful drive along the banks of the river to Khwai, and there you can often find roan antelope which occur only very rarely in the Xakanaxa area.

Central facilities: After a terrible fire burnt down Xakanaxa's main area, in 2000, they rebuild their reception, lounge and dining area. Arriving at Xakanaxa you enter the new reception area which is a solid building with a high thatched roof. You're greeted with a cool drink and a fresh face-towel. Whilst you're going through procedures with the camp managers, your bags will be whisked off to your tent. Behind reception lies a well maintained lawn and Xakanaxa's main area. The lounge and dining area are constructed of local timber, reed and thatch, and are raised on stilts to maximise the views over the lagoon. The lounge is elegant, decorated in deep reds and dark wood. There's a small library and a “help yourself” bar. The front of the lounge is open and flows onto an expansive deck which leads to the dining room on the left and the pool to the right. The long dining room table is made from reclaimed old railway sleepers, and dinner are served by candlelight. The pool area has a shaded sala and a bed – a great place to spent your afternoon. Jutting out over the lagoon and under a giant Jackalberry tree is a fire deck. After dinner drinks and liquers are served here under the stars. There's a well-stocked curio shop in the reception area.

Geographics

Location: Moremi Game Reserve, Botswana

Directions: Fly by light aircraft from Maun (approximately 25 minutes) or Kasane (approximately 1 hour) to the Xakanaxa airstrip. Then transfer by game vehicle from the airstrip to camp (10 – 15 minutes.) Xakanaxa can also be reached by 4x4 self-drive vehicles. (approximately 140km north of Maun.)

Accessible by: Self-drive or Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: Independent / Owner Run Xakanaxa is one of the few independently owned camps (ie: camps that aren't run by a large company as part of a group) in northern Botswana. It has been managed for about 16 years by Bob and Flo Flaxman. Owner: Woolgang Burre – German who lives in South Africa Company Name: Moremi Safaris

Staff: Xakanaxa has long been run by Bob and Flo Flaxman – and it's always a real pleasure to re-visit and talk to such an experienced and knowledgeable couple. My guide – Ollie Other guides: Water, Metsie, Montso and Ngandi

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: I spent one night at Xakanaxa in October '07, and the two meals I had were all delicious! Before dinner, the guests all met for drinks and snacks in the lounge. For dinner we were served a vegetable crepe for starters, and this was followed by a buffet of beef fillet, fluffy mash potatoes and fresh vegetables – all accompanied by a choice of either white or red South African wines. Dessert was again served … though having eaten so well, I declined this! A light breakfast was served at dawn, just before we headed out on our morning boat trip. There was a choice of tea, coffee, fruit juice, cereal, rusks (a South Africa biscuit) muffins and fruit. After the morning game activity, we returned to camp for brunch - which was a buffet of fresh fruit, yoghurt, quiche and the option of a full English breakfast with eggs cooked to order. On the table was something very interesting… a fruit bolognaise. This was a jar of very finely minced-up fruit. I didn't try any, but some of the other guests had some with their cereal and yoghurt and commented that it was very good. After a few hours of siesta, high tea was served before the afternoon game activity – including hot and cold drinks and biscuits.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor Dining

Room service: No.

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: Include soft drinks, local-brand spirits, house wines and beer. Premium brands are excluded.

Special interests

Family holidays: Xakanaxa is better than most safari camps in Botswana at catering for families and children. It's a particularly good option if for small groups or larger families who can take over three or four tents, and have their own private camp-within-a-camp – complete with their own lounge, dining and pool areas. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for family holidays in Botswana

Birdwatching: The Okavango Delta has excellent birding, especially from September to March when migrants breed here. In front of Xakanaxa, the lagoon has a small bird colony, but if you're staying for 4 nights or more, then make a special request to visit Gudigwa Lagoon – a huge breeding colony of storks which is a long boat ride away. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for birdwatching in Botswana

Wildlife: The Xakanaxa area of the Moremi is one of the best areas for wildlife in Botswana; it has excellent densities of game and birdlife. Xakanaxa Camp is right in the middle of this – the only drawback is that you will have to share the sights with other vehicles. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for wildlife in Botswana

Children

Attitude towards children: Xakanaxa welcomes families and children of 5 years and older.

Age restrictions: Infants and children aged 0 – 4 years are not accepted at Xakanaxa Camp.

Activities: None. There are no babysitters available; parents need to be responsible for their own children!

Equipment: An extra bed can be put in a double room for a child to share with two adults. A triple room for adults is not permitted. Xakanaxa's 'Pandani' area is ideal for families. It has four tents which share their own private lounge and dining area, and a small swimming pool.

Generally recommended for children: Yes - for children 5 years and above. Although Xakanaxa does accept children, the parents must take full responsibility and must be aware that this camp is very open and is on the water's edge. It's in an area which has dangerous big game wandering through camp on a daily basis; children need constant supervision here.

Notes: Children of 5 years are allowed on game activities.

Central communications

Power supply: Generator

Communications: Radio Satellite phone

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: The closet doctor is in Maun. The camp is in direct radio contact with medical rescue.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: The tents have sirens for emergencies. There are no guards, but you are escorted to your tent after dark. There is a 3-strand electric fence around the back of the camp. This is designed purely to keep the elephants out of the camp – as they can be destructive to the trees as well as dangerous.

Fire safety: Each tent has a fire extinguisher.

Extras

Disabled access: On Request

Laundry facilities: Included.

Money: Xakanaxa accepts US$, Euros, travellers cheques and credit cards (5% surcharge with credit cards.)

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