Read 16 traveller reviews of Pole Pole

Called Pole Pole Bungalow Resort by its owners, Pole Pole is nothing like a big 'resort' in the usual sense of the word. Instead Pole Pole is a very relaxed beach lodge sitting beside the calm and sheltered Chole Bay, in the Mafia Marine Park. The phrase 'Pole Pole' means 'slowly, slowly' in Swahili, and certainly says a lot about the atmosphere here. With only seven thatched bungalows – Pole Pole is a really peaceful and relaxed beach lodge to escape to.

The beach at Pole Pole is a quiet stretch of white sand, which is cut off at either end by outcrops of mangroves. There is a path through this, which roughly follows the high-tide line, and allows you to explore further along the shore. When the tide is high, the mangroves makes the narrow strip of beach feel like a secluded little cove. Then when the tide goes out, you can potter much further from the shore, and explore a little further a field.

As with Zanzibar, the tide here can go out a long way, and result in you not being able to swim at all times during the day. However, wander through the mangroves, around the corner from Pole Pole, to find a stretch of beach where you can swim throughout the day. Or you can of course take advantage of the Dhow trips and head out to a sandbar where you can swim. (See under 'Activities' below.)

The rooms at Pole Pole are all thatched bungalows, and from the outside, all are quite rustic – and they appear as if they have been built entirely from palm fronds. These all sit slightly above the sea level, as the coast slopes upward a little, and each has an en suite bathroom and a small, private veranda – complete with loungers and a day-bed.

Step inside each and you find quite a stylish room, with dark, polished wooden floors and solid white-washed walls decorated by colourful Tanzanian fabrics. Pole Pole is Italian-owned, and this shows itself in the simple-but-stylish air of the cottages, as well as in the menu.

There is a good variety of activities on offer at Pole Pole. Daily dhow trips to a nearby sandbar, as well as daily snorkeling trips within Chole Bay, are included in the rates here. For activities outside of the bay, such as island trips – there is a small additional charge; the costs for these longer trips ranges from $10-35, and so is still very reasonable. Stay for a while and there are plenty of different destinations to explore – from old historical ruins to the amazing colony of fruit-bats on nearby Chole Island.

You might also want to take a walk around the nearby Utende Village with a guide (included). This will give you the chance to meet the local people of this untouched area.

Right on the beach – you will also find Pole Pole's small 'spa' – although in reality it's an area for massage, with an excellent local therapist. Here you can pamper yourself with treatments ranging from a manicure to a full body massage. Prices vary but are generally very moderate; expect to pay about US$20-35 for a treatment here.

There is a small PADI Scuba diving centre sited barely five minute's walk down the beach. Here you will find a very competent team with well maintained equipment. They run PADI courses and diving excursions, in and around Chole Bay, and happy to show you some of the vast number of dive sites around Mafia. The manager usually pops over to Pole Pole in the evenings, to make arrangements for diving the next day.

Pole Pole is a small, quiet and personal beach lodge that feels manages an excellent balance – between staying in keeping with its surroundings, yet also creating a feeling of comfort and luxury.

Pole Pole is

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Bungalow at Pole Pole

Lodge overview

Lodge type: Beach

No. of bedrooms: 7 thatched bungalows

Season: 1 June to 31 March

Ideal length of stay: Three nights or more

Central facilities: Pole Pole's main areas are all built in very similar style – with high thatch ceilings, dark wooden floors and natural fabrics. The main bar, lounge and dining area are housed under one roof. With the dining area being on a slightly lower level, whilst the bar is up a further few steps. Though both share one open-plan space. In the dinning area – look out for the range of Pole Pole's handmade soaps, which are beautifully displayed in a Zanzibari cabinet This area is furnished with simple yet stylish wicker furniture, cream cushions and scatter cushions with intricate African patterns on them. Then bar is made from entirely from wood and rope. The bar does look quite rustic, but has a quaint charm to it – very much in keeping with Pole Pole's general style. The clock behind that bar stopped working a long time ago – which is quite apt as time really isn't important here! Pole Pole also has a smaller dining area that is used for special dinners. If you want a quiet dinner away from all other guests – ask Pole Pole to arrange a dinner for you here. It is not far from the main dining area, but offers a little more privacy! Then, during the day, this area has a number of sofas and a hammock in which to relax out of the sun.

Geographics

Location: Mafia Island, Tanzania

Directions: The main town on Mafia Island, Kilondoni, is a 25-minute flight from Dar es Salaam; it is then a 45-minute drive across the island to Pole Pole.

Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: Independent / Owner Run

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: When we last visited, the food at Pole Pole was very tasty and there was always more than enough! Being Italian owned, the food at Pole Pole is often very Italian influenced – though you will also find the odd Swahili dish being offered as well. Breakfast is usually a very casual affair and guests are free to arrive at the leisure during the morning. You can expect fruit, cereals, yoghurts and a cooked breakfast as well. Lunch is also very casual and can be timed around guests varying activities. For lunch there is usually three courses on offer – however it is still a light lunch, involving lots of salads and cold meats. Dinner is then a three course meal – and there is certainly enough to go around. Often you will be served salads, pate, pasta and other international style dishes. Though on occasion – Pole Pole will also do a Swahili or a barbeque night.

Dining style: Inidividual Tables

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Room service: Pole Pole are happy to help with some room service, though there are no phones, so you will need to organize this in advance. The team will happily bring tea or coffee to you in the mornings. At 6pm a waiter will usually come and ask you if you wish to have a sundowner drink. However if you do not wish to be disturbed – then you can leave the privacy notice across your door.

Drinks included: Tea, coffee, and filtered drinking water; other drinks cost extra.

Special interests

Honeymoons: Pole Pole is a very relaxed lodge which is perfect for those wanting a romantic time in a peaceful location. Furthermore the team at Pole Pole is very good at making guests feel special and pampered – setting up private dinners and other special touches. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for honeymoons in Tanzania

Beach holidays: Pole Pole has a beach in front of it – but Mafia's most amazing beaches are reached on one of their dhow trips. These take you to remote sand-bars in the bay: stunning small beaches with a 360 degree view of the ocean all around! - See more of our suggestions of the best places for beach holidays in Tanzania

Diving & snorkelling: As with all of the lodges on Mafia – Pole Pole offers fantastic diving in the Mafia Island Marine Park. This is some of the best diving on the East African coast. When we last there, diving cost U$40 for a single dive and $300 for a 10 dive package (plus a $20 a day equipment hire fee). - See more of our suggestions of the best places for diving & snorkelling in Tanzania

Walking: Pole Pole has good, but very low-key massages and treatments, offered by a tiny, laid-back 'spa' on the beach. Thus isn't the place for high-end therapies, but for a relaxing massage in a great location – it's a great bet! - See more of our suggestions of the best places for walking in Tanzania

Children

Attitude towards children: Children of all ages are welcome at Pole Pole

Age restrictions: There are no age restrictions at Pole Pole

Equipment: There is no special equipment at Pole Pole for children.

Central communications

Power supply: Mains Electricity

Communications: There is mobile phone reception at Pole Pole and the camp has email that guests can use in cases of emergency

TV & radio: No

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: There is first aid available at Pole Pole, for more serious cases there is a doctor in Kilondoni – the main town on Mafia.

Security measures: There is a gate at the front of Pole Pole and askaris (guards) on duty 24 hours a day.

Fire safety: There are no fire extinguishers at Pole Pole – but all of the main areas in the lodge are open sided, and everything is single-storey.

Extras

Disabled access: Not Possible

Laundry facilities: Laundry is included at Pole Pole

Money: Pole Pole will happily exchange small amounts into Tanzania shillings for use in the local villages – but it is not a bureau de change.

Accepted payment: You can pay in cash in pounds, euros and dollars. You can also use Visa and Mastercard – but you will be charged $10 per transaction. Pole Pole cannot accept Amex or travellers' cheques.

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