Read 14 traveller reviews of Mwamba Bush Camp

Mwamba Bush Camp is the smaller sister camp to Kaingo Camp; also owned and run by Derek and Jules Shenton. A morning's walk, or a short game drive from Kaingo, the remote Mwamba is set beneath the shade of some tall ebony trees overlooking a waterhole in the bed of the seasonal Mwamba River.

Mwamba is a small and intimate bush camp accommodating a maximum of six guests in three simple, yet comfortable, chalets. Everything about the camp is natural.

The thatched chalets have reed walls and mud-packed floors. Above each bed is a mosquito net and a large gauze skylight – designed to give you the feeling of sleeping under the stars. The colours are neutral with African print fabrics, wall hangings and grass mats on the floors. There are wooden cupboards and shelves for storage (with dressing gowns for your comfort,) bedside tables, and a little wooden box to lock away your valuables. Each chalet also has a shaded verandah with a wooden table and chairs overlooking the river.

Two of the chalets have twin beds, whilst the third chalet is referred to as the 'honeymoon suite' as it has a four poster bed.

At the back of each chalet is a large open-air en-suite bathroom which is enclosed by a tall reed wall. These also have a real bush feel. They've been built around some enormous ebony trees and have sandy floors with grass mats. Although simple, they have all the necessary comforts like flushing toilets, ceramic basins with hot and cold running water, and hot bucket showers which are filled for the guests after their game drives (or on request).

Like Kaingo, Mwamba also has a number of stunning photographic hides. There are three hides very close to Mwamba; two within the camp and one just outside, and all three hides are focused on the perennial water-holes.

Guests can also make use of the hides in the area which is shared with Kaingo, including the Carmine Bee-eater Hide (best in September & October), which is a boat moored off a carmine colony; the Hippo Hide, which is inside the riverbank beside a deep hippo-filled pool; and the Elephant Hide, which is a platform up a tall, riverside tree – where elephants often cross the river.
These hides have been used by the BBC, National Geographic, Discovery Channel and many independent film makers and photographers, including Francois D'Elbee, who recently published a photographic coffee table book of Luangwa's people.

Activities at Mwamba include walking safaris, game drives (day and night) and trips to the hides; all of which are run by excellent guides. Like Kaingo – but unusually for most safari camps – Mwamba operates on the basis of three activities per day.

A typical day usually starts by waking to drumming, followed by tea/coffee and biscuits around the camp fire, before setting off on an early-morning game drive or walking safari. You return to a large breakfast, after which there's the opportunity to head out to one of the hides.

On my last trip at Mwamba, in June '07, we'd just finished breakfast when we heard the barking of baboons – often the alarm call for a leopard. We jumped into the vehicle and raced around trying to find the leopard… but were unfortunately unsuccessful (that time). Leopards are common in the Mwamba and Kaingo area, so much so that the guides describe them flippantly as “falling out of the trees”.

After the 'hide activity' you return to camp for a light lunch and then perhaps a short siesta. Then meet in the late-afternoon for tea and cakes before your afternoon/evening activity.

If you'd like to end off your day at camp – rather than out on an afternoon activity – then Mwamba has a great spot for sundowners! Just behind the camp lies a large termite mound. Built on top of the termite mound, Derek and his team have created a seating area with a thatched canopy – which is idea for sundowners.

Like Kaingo, the Mwamba area has very good game and bird life. The mixture of environments here provides a variety of landscapes, and sustains a diversity of animals. There are wide open plains (Lion Plain and Eland Plain), mopane woodlands, waterholes, lagoons, thick riverine bush and the Mwamba River. It's an excellent area for both guided walks and day and night game drives – and you'll be guided by some of the valleys most experienced and knowledgeable guides.

Expect to see plenty of zebras, Cookson's wildebeest (it's probably the best place in South Luangwa for these endemic animals), puku, impala, elephants, giraffe, waterbuck and bushbuck. If you're as lucky as I've been on two of my visits to Mwamba and Kaingo, you'll also see leopards on every night drive (plus porcupines, civets and the white tailed mongoose).

The local pride of lions, known as the 'Mwamba pride' frequent the area, and often turn up at one of the waterholes overlooked by hides. In June '07, when we last visited, we counted seven lions in the pride – and had a very good sighting of them.

Whilst only a novice bird-watcher, I counted many kingfishers (I saw pied and grey-hooded), fish eagles, lilac-breasted rollers, white-browed coucals, giant eagle owls, lovebirds and weavers amongst my sightings in a short stay.

In conclusion … we've visited Mwamba often, and although it's sometimes described as a very basic bushcamp … we beg to disagree. We found the rooms spacious, the beds very comfortable, and the en-suite bathroom excellent. The food was great – and we loved the flexibility of the activities (especially the hides!) and the obvious passion of the guides.

Lodge overview

Lodge type: Safari

No. of bedrooms: 3 thatched chalets

Season: 20 May to 31 Oct

Ideal length of stay: We recommend a minimum of 3 nights at Mwamba, although 4-8 nights would be ideal for a combined stay of Mwamba and the sister camp Kaingo.

Central facilities: Mwamba is a small and simple natural bush camp. Mwamba's chitenge (main area) is set beneath the shade of some tall ebony trees. It's very simple and natural, with sandy floors, a low reed wall, solar-power lights, candles and paraffin lanterns. The wooden bar at the back of the chitenge, is a real feature. It's built around a huge ebony tree which is entwined with python vines – and supports the drinks shelf. It's a great spot for a social drink before meal times! There's also a little lounge area with some wooden chairs and a cushioned bench, with plenty of reading material and a few board games to keep you entertained. Breakfast and dinner are usually served at the large wooden dining room table (which Derek made) in the center of the chitenge. Whereas lunch is more relaxed, and is usually a buffet set up under their thatched gazebo overlooking the Mwamba river.

Geographics

Location: South Luangwa National Park, Zambia

Directions: Fly to Mfuwe and transfer to camp. It's an approximate 2-hour drive from Mfuwe to Mwamba (partly through villages, partly safari).

Accessible by: Fly-and-Transfer

Key personnel

Owner: Derek & Jules Shenton

Staff: Camp Manager: guides rotate between the camps Guide: Derek Shenton, Ian Salisbury and Patrick Njobvu. Guide: Al & Emmanuel have passed their exams but are gaining their experience under Derek, Ian & Patrick.

Food & drink

Usual board basis: Full Board

Food quality: Shenton Safaris know how to keep both your days and your stomachs full (if you choose to!). On my last trip to Mwamba (June '07) the food was very good. I'm always amazed by the quality of food that the chefs can produce in their bush kitchens. Meals are announced by drumming. After your morning activity, there's a very relaxed buffet breakfast with cereals, fruit, muffins and yogurt – as well as toast and a full English breakfast (made to order). A few hours later, the light lunch is often served under the thatched gazebo, over the edge of the river. Last year one such lunch was a freshly baked pizza and green salad, followed by fruit salad – and another we enjoyed was a very Moorish pasta dish, with salad and fresh fruit afterwards. Afternoon tea is served at around 4pm, before heading out on your evening game activity – with cake / biscuits on offer, as well as drinks. Dinner is three courses, all served to you at the table platted, and accompanied by your choice of red or white wine. On my last trip we had mushroom ravioli for starter, stuffed chicken and vegetables for main course – followed by a lovely crêpe suzette for dessert. Having spent a few nights with Shenton Safaris on different occasions, I've always found their meals to be very good.

Dining style: Group Meals

Dining locations: Indoor and Outdoor Dining

Room service: No

Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included

Drinks included: All local branded soft drinks, beers, spirits and house wines are included. Premium wines and champagnes cost extra.

Special interests

Birdwatching: Mwamba's mixture of environments makes for very good bird-watching – and their game hides are ideal for 'twitchers'. For example, in September & October the Carmine Bee-eater Hide is a small boat moored in a vestigial pool in the Luangwa River, barely a few meters from a colony of carmine bee-eaters. You won't get better shots! - See more of our suggestions of the best places for birdwatching in Zambia

Photographic: Mwamba takes particularly good care of photographers. The hides here are excellent for getting great shots – and have been used by the BBC's Natural History unit, National Geographic, Discovery Channel, amongst others. Mwamba's 4WD vehicles never take more than 2 guests per row of seats – and bean bags and camera covers are provided on request. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for photographic in Zambia

Walking: Mwamba has some of the most experienced guides in the Luangwa Valley. Guests who combine a stay at the sister camp Kaingo usually walk from camp to camp – and it's a very rich game area. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for walking in Zambia

Wildlife: One of Mwamba's main draw cards is their game hides. When most camps offer a siesta time, Mwamba will take you to one of their hides where you can spend as much or a little time as you like. Their area has a high density of game and bird life and guiding is of a very high standard. - See more of our suggestions of the best places for wildlife in Zambia

Children

Attitude towards children: Mwamba will accept children; they strongly prefer children to be over the age of 7. However, this can be flexible if a family is taking the whole camp. All children must be sensible and well behaved. Parents need to supervise their kids, and child minders are not available! Children under 12 are not allowed on walks.

Age restrictions: Children must be over 6 years of age.

Activities: None.

Equipment: One extra bed can be put in the parents room for a child to share. This will be a bit of a squash as the rooms are not big.

Generally recommended for children: Expert Africa does not recommend Mwamba for children under 12 – which is the minimum age to take part in the walking activities – unless the camp is being taken exclusively by an Africa-wise family.

Notes: Parents need to be aware that this camp is not fenced and animals do walk through the camp. When I was there, we had an elephant in camp; and when my colleague was there, a lion walked past her chalet. Children must never be left unsupervised.

Central communications

Power supply: Solar Power

Communications: There is no direct phone line – although the camp does have a radio and keeps in touch with Kaingo and the other camps in the valley. There is no mobile reception.

TV & radio: There are no radios or TV's here.

Health & safety

Malarial area: Yes

Medical care: The closest doctor is in Mfuwe (1¼ hours fast drive away) For emergencies clients will be evacuated by Medivac.

Dangerous animals: High Risk

Security measures: Guests are not allowed to walk around alone after dark – they will be escorted to their chalets at night. There are no night watchmen.

Fire safety: There are fire extinguishers at every chalet and around the camp.

Extras

Disabled access: On Request

Laundry facilities: Included.

Money: No exchange facilities offered.

Accepted payment: Cash only – Pounds, Euros and US$ are accepted.

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