Meno A Kwena Tented Camp is a great old-style safari camp, run by an experienced expert with a real passion for Botswana's bush, David Dugmore.
Meno A Kwena Camp is situated on tribal land and has kept the local name of the area, which translates as tooth of the crocodile. The camp has been built on a cliff edge overlooking the dry riverbed of the Boteti River, which last flowed in 1993.
The accommodation here doesn't aim to be palatial, although royalty have been known to stay. It's like a permanent bushcamp with a traditional Batswana twist. Comfortable walk-in mini-Meru tents enclosed in a kraal (fenced area used in local villages to surround a homestead), complete with twin or double beds using fresh cotton linen and cosy duvets. Each kraal has its own private bucket shower with a view and a small thatched rondavel with a flush toilet.
Sand paths through the bush link the rooms to Meno A Kwena's main areas. A large L-shaped marquee, similar to a big top, covers the kitchen, bar, dining area and lounge complete with full reference library. Nearby is the camp fire and plunge pool overlooking the Boteti River's bed and its waterhole.
When we visited recently, David apologised for not putting so much time into sprucing up the accommodation. He had prioritised the provision of essential water sources to the wildlife in this area – and had been busy creating and developing the camp's two waterholes. This is an ongoing venture as part of his water for life project. That said, he had ordered new tents, and a honeymoon kraal was in the last stages of creation. We were pleased to see that whilst the old tents were being renewed, and some small additions were to be made, there were no changes in the pipeline that would alter Meno A Kwena's fundamental style or feel.
Activities from Meno A Kwena include walking trips and cultural activities with a local community. 4WD safaris are also available, varying from short sorties to the nearby Ngandi Community Trust Area to full-day safaris with a picnic into Makgadikgadi National Park or Nxai Pan National Park.
Having said that, many visitors, especially in the dry season, choose a more relaxed approach. They stay around the camp, as it overlooks two of the park's best waterholes: one directly below the camp in the riverbed and the second, 400m away on the opposite bank. As well as comfortable seating areas and a viewing telescope overlooking the riverbed, there is hide half-way down the bank, complete with chairs, a raised day bed and bean bags to aid keen photographers. This is not only some of the best game in the region, but it also makes for a very relaxing stay after the hectic round of activities at many camps.
A particularly good combination here is to spend three nights at Meno A Kwena Tented Camp, and a fourth sleeping out under the stars as part of a quad-bike trip onto the Makgadikgadi salt-pans.
For the tireless, small 3- to 4-day expeditions further afield can be organised (at extra cost), including trips to Nxai Pan, Baines Baobabs and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve.
Meno A Kwena's relaxed atmosphere, warm welcome and the team's keen interest in the surrounding area and its wildlife shine though – as does the hand-on approach of the camp's committed owner. It's a highlight of many visits to Botswana.
Central facilities: A large L-shaped marquee makes up Meno A Kwena's main area and includes a dining area, lounge with an extensive, interesting reference library and comfortable sofas with plentiful cushions covered in bright eastern and kikoi (striped African sarong) fabrics.
Two bird baths near main area are frequented by pied babblers, crimson breasted shrikes, buffalo weavers, red-billed francolins and the occasional goshawk.
The camp's plunge pool is built out of Boteti rock and overlooks the riverbed and waterhole. By the pool is a covered sitting area with a comfortable couch and chairs – a great spot to relax with a good book whilst keeping an eye on the continuous stream of animals coming for a drink. Nearby, the camp fire is surrounded by locally made easy chairs and 'logs', designed for resting your sundowner drinks on.
As well as the viewing telescope on the cliff top, there is a spacious hide situated halfway down the riverbank, overlooking the waterhole. Just above the watering hole, at about elephant head height, is the 'viewing rock'. This is a special spot to visit, under the watchful eye as a guide, when elephants come to drink. Not recommended for those who can't sit still for a long period of time!
The whole camp is a museum/gallery filled with interesting skulls, bones, artifacts and pictures of the Dugmore family and past friends and visitors to the camp. The main toilet has particularly interesting images and curios.
Directions: Road transfers between Maun to Meno A Kwena take about 1½ hours and are included in the camp's accommodation rate. There is an airstrip 17km from camp at Motopi, which could be used for a fly-in transfer. However, the strip is not suitable at present so this option will only be available in the future.
During the dry season, Meno A Kwena is easy to reach by ordinary 2WD, from the old gravel road that runs between Motopi and Rakops. The turn-off to the lodge is about 27km south of Motopi, or 100km north of Rakops.
Accessible by: Self-drive or Fly-and-Transfer
Key personnel
Owner: Independent / Owner Run by David Dugmore
Staff: Guide: Jeff is an old friend of Davids with very similar ideals. His knowleadge of the bush is comprehensive and he has a penchant for story telling.
Guide: !Thoma is a Naro bushman and is training as a guide.
Food & drink
Usual board basis: Full Board
Food quality: We have visited Meno A Kwena three times in the past two years and each time we have found the food delicious and of a high standard; this is particularly impressive considering that it is all cooked over an open fire. Plenty of fresh ingredients are used together with well-made sauces and flavours.
Breakfast usually consists of cereals, fresh fire-baked bread, yoghurts, juice and your choice of eggs for a cooked breakfast – and is timed very flexibly, depending on what morning activities you have planned.
Lunch is usually served at 1pm and includes one main dish such as quiche, pie or lasagna with a choice of salads and finished off with bread and a selection of cheeses.
Dinners are 3-course affairs that often begin with soup and end with a light and delicious desert.
Just in case you get peckish between meals there is often a freshly baked cake for afternoon tea, and also snacks to accompany your sundowner drinks.
Dining style: Group Meals
Dining locations: Indoor Dining
Room service: No – food and drink not recommended in tents as the camp feels that they don't want to encourage any of the wildlife to enter the tents.
Cost of meal e.g. lunch: Included
Drinks included: Yes, except premium brands. Most spirits are available including vodka, whisky and gin. Beers, wine, water (bottled or filtered borehole water), soft drinks, tea, coffee, hot chocolate are readily available throughout the day.
Special interests
Photographic: Standing high above a watering hole for game, Meno a Kwena is a good spot for keen photographers with long lenses to take unobtrusive pictures of busy wildlife scenes. As an excellent example, see Dave Lawrence's beautiful photography gallery from a trip that he made with Expert Africa in late 2006.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for photographic in Botswana
Traditional Cultures: A village tour can be arranged on request. This is a 3- to 4-hour activity including a visit to the local primary school. Your guide will introduce you to various important characters as you pass through the village including the headman and local policeman. There's also time to try the locally brewed beer on a visit to the local bar or visit the local craftsmen.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for traditional cultures in Botswana
Wildlife: Each year, zebra migrate in their thousands between the Makgadigadi Pans and the new Makgadigadi fence which is as far as they can go. Meno A Kwena is one of the only water points in this area and zebra can be seen drinking here in their thousands during the dry season (Jun – Oct), together with numerous other species. The camp is a great spot to view predator on prey action as the resident Kalahari lions make the most of this feast.
- See more of our suggestions of the best places for wildlife in Botswana
Children
Attitude towards children: The camp welcomes all ages of children, provided they are not too boisterous. When watching animals come to drink at the waterhole, any noise carries easily from the lodge down into the riverbed – so children must be well-behaved.
Age restrictions: None.
Activities: Children's meals can be requested. The guiding technique here involves touching, tasting, looking and discussing which will work well for children who are keen to learn about the environment.
Equipment: A canvas dome tent (3x3 metre) with stretcher beds will be set up in front of the parent's tent for children under age of 16 who are not sharing a twin room with an adult. The bucket shower and toilet in the kraal will then be shared between the family.
Generally recommended for children: Although Meno A Kwena is a very relaxed camp, and the team are very child-friendly, note that it does get regular visits from lion – who will, on occasions, walk along the footpaths and around the main kraals. This is a danger to younger children, so we don't recommend the camp for younger children under the age of about 12.
Notes: Meno A Kwena is not ideal for those who are looking solely for game drives to spot animals – but older children who are interested in taking part and learning about nature and the environment will love it.
Central communications
Power supply: None
Communications: The camp has a VSat landline for their own use and in case of emergencies. There is no mobile phone reception.
TV & radio: No.
Health & safety
Malarial area: Yes
Medical care: The camp has a full first aid kit available and the guides have had first aid training. Vehicle transfers to Maun hospital for relatively serious incidents. The Medivac helicopter in Maun is always on standby for emergencies.
Dangerous animals: High Risk
Security measures: You are escorted to and from your tent after dark. The camp situated in national park with wild animals and surrounded by electric fence around so no real risk of thieves from outside. People always around during the day time. There are no security guards.
Fire safety: Fire extinguishers which are checked every 12 months. All rooms and main areas open to directly to the outside.
Extras
Disabled access: Not Possible
Laundry facilities: Included – collected in morning and returned the same day. A laundry bag is available in tents.
Money: There is no currency exchange at Meno A Kwena.
Accepted payment: Cash is accepted for curios and kikois which are on sale. This can be paid in US Dollars, Euro, Pounds Sterling, South African Rand and Botswana Pula.
Superb camp at Meno A Kwena
A very satisfying wilderness experience. We were priveleged to be in accommodation directly above a waterhole giving unusual views of the wildlife from above. There is a roomy hide on the cliff face d...
Laid back, prehaps a little too much.
The Tent was excellent, staff were helpful but not particularly friendly (english may have a problem for some - I often recieved only a nod in response to my comment or question).
Often staff did ...
Meno A Kwena review
Very interesting camp. Good staff - our guide Dabe was excellent. A very interesting man full of knowledge and very proud of being San. We had fascinating conversations about his community near Gha...
Useful links...
We want you to understand more about Meno A Kwena. We're also confident that a trip there with us cost you the same or less than booking it any other way, even directly. So follow the links below.
Meno a Kwena homepage Lots of pictures and the entertaining Boteti Diaries - a long but good read
