Covering an undulating 2,600km², Tarangire National Park stands between the plains of the Maasai Steppe to the south-east and the lakes of the Great Rift Valley to the north and west. The north side of Tarangire is dominated by the perennial Tarangire River, which flows through increasingly incised ravines until it leaves the north-western corner of the park to flow into Lake Burungi. In the south are a series of vast 'swamps' which dry into verdant plains during the dry season.

Think of Tarangire as part of a much larger ecosystem, and you'll understand why its game varies with the seasons. From November to May, much of the game leaves the park; herds of wildebeest and zebra head north-west onto the floor of the Rift Valley, whilst many animals disperse across the vast open areas of the Maasi Steppe. From around June to October, it's dry and the game returns to Tarangire's swamps and, especially, its river system. This is the best season for a game-viewing safari in Tarangire, which can be excellent.

Although Tarangire is one of only four parks on Tanzania's frenetic 'northern circuit', is often missed out by many of the more cursory mini-bus tours. Meanwhile most of those who do visit, don't spend more than 24 hours here. This means that few get beyond the park's busy northern section, leaving a vast area in the south of the park which gets few visitors and retains a real air of wilderness.

Tarangire's vegetation comprises of mostly dry, open woodlands, which include spiky acacia thickets and lots of its signature baobab trees. There are also some beautiful stands of acacia tortillis trees (the flat-topped acacias which are so reminiscent of the film Out of Africa) and the occasional palm tree. In the south of the park, amidst these rolling woodlands, is a network of huge, flat swamps. These are impassable during the rains, but dry to a uniform green during the rest of the year.

At its best, the game in Tarangire can be excellent. Particularly large number of elephant herds that congregate here, as do many wildebeest and zebra. There are also substantial populations of impala, giraffe, eland and buffalo. Thompson's gazelle, Coke's hartebeest, bohor reedbuck and both greater and lesser kudu are found here. The localised and unusual gerenuk and fringe-eared oryx also occur here, though in our experience they are seen exceedingly rarely. There are still thought to be a few black rhino in the park.

Lion are common throughout Tarangire, as are leopard, whilst cheetah seem to favour the more open areas of the south. Spotted hyena are always around, and whilst wild dog do sometimes pass through; sightings of them are rare.

With a range of environments and good game, Tarangire's birdlife is also varied – and over 500 species have been recorded here, including ashy starlings and large flocks of beautiful yellow-collared lovebirds, both of which are endemic to Tanzania.


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