Heading north of Swakopmund, and inland; the scenery is superb. Bare granite domes spring up from gravel plains like sentinels. These imposing formations appear impenetrable, and the areas are certainly wild, but they're easy to visit – and fit neatly into fly-drive trips between Swakopmund and Etosha.

Southern Damaraland

On the sourthern side of Damaraland, you'll find the huge Brandberg rock massif and its famous White Lady rock painting. Simply stop your car to take a walk with a local guide to find caves and shelters adorned by a wealth of bushman rock art.

Little more than an hour's drive away, the green land rises into flat-topped mountains. Thousands of ancient paintings and engravings are hidden on Twyfelfontein's hillside. Nearby, fossilised tree trunks litter the ground in a petrified forest, and strange rock formations resemble organ pipes.

Southern Damaraland is best explored with your own car, so choose a base and allow yourself a day or so to look around. There are several places that make a good base for a day or two's exploring here. Twyfelfontein Country Lodge is large, but good value, which the nearby Mowani Mountain Camp is smaller and more stylish. Meanwhile, the relatively new Doro Nawas is already making a good name for itself, and has a great vibe from the local community who partly own the lodge. Further to the east, on the way to Etosha, Vingerklip Lodge stands in a spectacular position with superb views, and makes a comfortable over-night stop on the way to Etosha.

For something totally different, consider an off-road expedition, camping with a top Namibian guides. This is tailored to what you want, and it might include exploring the mountains, focussing on the area's geology and mineral, learning a lot more about its rock art, and even tracking rhino. See our Mini-expedition for more details – and call us to discuss what you want to do.

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Northern Damaraland

Further north, the rolling mountains of Damaraland are safeguarded by private reserves (or 'concession areas') to protect the rare desert-adapted elephant, black rhino, and other wildlife that thrives here.

If you visit one of these private reserves, then stay for at least two or three nights. Drive there, park your car, and relax as local experts guide you across the rugged terrain on foot or in 4WDs. The wildlife is unique, but not prolific, though with excellent guiding, most visitors will at least have good sightings of desert-adapted elephants or black rhino.

The original small camps here include Etendeka and Damaraland Camp, as well as the larger Palmwag Lodge, which is one of this region's oldest lodges. A few hours' drive away is the excellent Palmwag Rhino Camp.

Between Damaraland and Etosha, Hobatere is slightly off the obvious driving route, but has great game, whilst the new Grootberg Lodge is another community joint venture which can make a perfect stop-over when driving between Damaraland and Etosha.

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